Mocsok mochik meséi

Nem, még mindig nem hagytam itt a blogot.

Idén megjártam Japánt. Igazából már régóta tervben volt, de úgy, ahogy ezek nálam lenni szoktak, szóval egy csomó tervem van, amiket egy tetszőleges esemény (amit Jelnek tekintek) elindíthat az (általában igen rövid határidejű) megvalósítás útjára lökhet. Ebben az esetben egy 300 fontos (!) repjegy volt a kiváltó ok, amit Sz talált az Expedián. Jó, jó, Aeroflot, amiről azt kell tudni, hogy nem viccből SU a kódja, de végülis elvinni elvisz, kaját meg viszünk mi. Kell. Nagyon rossz a kaja. Tényleg.

Szóval Párizsból indultunk, nekem már nem volt akkora csoda, de hát azért Eiffel-torony meg Versailles, meg végre megnéztem egy teljes, igazi Foujita-kiállítást, elejétől a végéig, és lehetett fényképezni. Ez egyfajta lezárása volt egy korszaknak, a 2010-es strasbourgi ösztöndíj alatt hallottam róla először a reims-i kápolnafreskó kapcsán, amikor még csak az fogott meg, hogy milyen gyönyörűen ötvözi a japán tusrajzokat a barokk aranyozással, és mindezt Jézuskában, most viszont kiderült az, amit az egyház érthető módon nem reklámozott róla: hogy egy nettó, igazi, párizsi pozőr festő volt, és csak a sokadik iterációban lett belőle Tsuguharu helyett Léonard és keresztelkedett meg aktuális nejével együtt. 

Ilyesmiket alkotott egyébként:


Kis Buddha.


Önarckép macskával.


Gyerek kutyával.

Végül aztán beszálltunk kis repülőnkbe (egy enyhe, frissítő tavaszi metrósztrájk után), és megálltunk egy kicsit Moszkvában.

Vaskos propagandafal, körülötte stratégiailag elhelyezve a reptér konnektorainak 90%-a.

Űrkaja-automata.

Aztán megérkeztünk. Az első megfigyelésem, hogy Japán egyrészt marha modern ország (a bőröndös kocsi kereke illeszkedik a mozgólépcsőre, és kifejezetten szólnak, hogy hagyd rajta), másrészt viszont nagyon harmadik világ (az angoltudás közel sem elvárható, azt pedig képtelenek megoldani, hogy EGY bérlettel lehessen igénybe venni az összes tömegközlekedést Tokióban). Két órába tellett, mire megszereztük a helyi SIM-kártyát (és eközben elvesztettük Sz-ét), átvettük a JR Passt, a tokiói városi metrókra szóló 3-napi jegyet, a többi járatra való, feltölthető Suica kártyát (amivel egyébként kávét, italt, ilyesmit is lehet venni csomó helyen), és megvettük a külön jegyet a reptérről befelé tartó vonatra. Ezután másik két óra volt eljutni a szállásra. 

Ki kell ábrándítsak mindenkit, semmi love hotel, kapszula vagy izgalmasabb szállás nem volt, Airbnb-t foglaltunk, méghozzá jó korán, mert cseresznyevirágzás és turistaroham idején mentünk. Első szállásunk Ikebukurótól volt gyalogtávra (mondtam már, hogy mekkora fless a metrón Murakami Harukit olvasni, miközben pont arra a sorra siklik a szemünk, ahol azt a megállót említi, ahol éppen járunk?), hagyományos japán ház, kivéve, hogy a tatamisnak szánt szobában nincs tatami, csak csupasz fapadló, így a trendi futon is kevés egy kicsit. Meg egyszer láttunk egy patkányt a gerendán. Nagyjából ennyit figyeltem meg, mielőtt álomba merültem. Este aztán még felébredtem és mászkáltunk egy kicsit, majd rögtönzött ereszdelahajamot csaptunk az egyéb vendégekkel, akiket, míg mi pihentünk/az elveszett SIM-kártyán kattogtunk, respectively, enyhén átvágott a házigazda: a saját bárjába vitte őket, ahol 2000 yen (kb. 5000 Ft) egységáron ihattak, ki mit akart, csak erről nem szólt előre, így az is ennyit fizetett, aki két gyömbért ivott. Ja és az élőzene (amit részben a vendégek szolgáltattak) feláras volt. Szóval nem bánom, hogy ezt kihagytuk. Utána bosszúból áthelyeztünk üvegeket a föld alatti rejtekhelyről a szabad prédának számító pultra. Éjfélkor rájöttem, hogy ez nem az én bulim, vagyis nem unalmasak ezek az emberek, csak nagyon sok ilyennel volt már dolgom az elmúlt 7 évben, és az, hogy egy amerikai mire csodálkozik rá Európában, már baromira nem arra inspirál, hogy még többet meséljek neki lebilincselő stílusban, hanem arra, hogy felmenjek aludni.

Na itt jönnek képbe a papírvékony plafonok, konkrétan minden szavát hallom a lentieknek. Hajnali 4-kor csendesednek el annyira, hogy aludni lehet. Szóval nekem kb. itt ért véget a jet lag.

Másnap tűztem Asakusába.


De csak mert anyukám hiányolta a felhőkarcolókat a beszámolómból (úgy tűnt, csak régi szentélyeket meg parkokat fotóztam), hát tessék. Ez egy nagyon modern és turistás negyed, és itt volt a kedvenc szentélyem, a Senso-ji. Sz javasolt egy teaboltot is, ahol pirított teát, nem pirított teát, és matcha teát vettem (ezzel megalapoztam az utazás végére kb. 2 kilósra nőtt kollekciómat). Minden matchás (matchafagyi, matchadesszert, matchás tészta), ami nem, az szakurás. A cseresznyevirágot nem szokás megenni, gondolná az ember, persze lehetett kapni szakurás sót is, amiben konkrét virágok vannak, de amúgy a szakurás latte és édességek geil cukrosak és rózsaszínűek. 


Pagoda, szakura, bámész ázsiai turista. Itt szembesültem először azzal, hogy ide a japánok is sokan utaznak, egyáltalán, a belső turizmus nagyon erős, legalább az emberek fele az összes helyen japán volt. 

A vallás errefelé egy érdekes dolog. Ahogy a dán mondta, magára valamit is adó japánnak nem csak egy vallása van. És tényleg, a sintó és buddhista vallás teljesen jól megfér egymással, noha szöges ellentétek például abban, hogy a buddhizmusban elvileg nyugi van, zen és meditáció, a sintó pedig egy nagyon interaktív vallás, minimum mosakodni, pénzt bedobni és harangozni kell, de komolyabb szentélyekben követ simogatni, alagúton átmászni, megrázni a jóslatfát stb.

 
Vagy minél jobban megfüstölődni.

Az összes parkban hanami van, vagyis piknik és virágcsodálás. Én ebben annyira vettem részt, hogy fogtam egy dobozos sört és fényképeztem. Utána jegyünk volt a Ghibli múzeumba.

Ghibli a japán Disney, legismertebb filmjeik a Chihiro szellemországban (Spirited Away) és a Vándorló palota (Howl's Moving Castle). A japánok persze nem ezért szeretik őket leginkább, ott inkább a régi filmek (Kiki, a boszorkányfutár, Nauszika) a menők. Nagyon jól megcsinálták a múzeumot, persze nem szabad bent fotózni, és persze minden csak japánul van kiírva, de tényleg egy mesevilág és nagyon érdekes még úgy is, hogy nem vagyok fanatikus. 

Utána még mászkáltunk és vacsoráztunk Satoshival, akit a MY-NY-ról ismertünk, de a kaját egy külön bejegyzésbe fogom tenni, mert megérdemli. 

Engem nagyon meglepett, hogy amellett, hogy minden pillanatban éreztem, hogy valami nagyon más és nagyon furcsa helyen vagyok, nagyon nekem valónak éreztem Tokiót. Seperc alatt megtanultam mindenkinek, minden helyzetben picit meghajolni (boltba be, bankkártyát átad, árut átvesz, boltból ki - mind meghajlási lehetőség), utat engedni, udvariasan mosolyogni, amikor valaki megjegyzést tesz Bercire (Berci az úti fokhagymám, Brüsszelben találtam egy szupermarket plüsszöldség-szekciójában). Jópofa, kedves ország, nem éreztem rajta azt az érzelmi elnyomást és nácizmust, amit vártam, hogy érezni fogok. Sokfélék az emberek, itt is van punk, öreg néni, cicababa stb., csak mindenki pluszba még japán, és ettől valahogy nagyon cuki lesz az egész. 

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